Occasional Climber

Annapurna Circuit – Manang to Tilicho Lake

Manang, in silhouette at left and Manaslu, spot-lit by dawn rays
As I crossed the Marsyangdi Khola above Manang, unusual landforms came into view. Behind them the snow covered Muktinath Himal bars the way into the Kali Gandaki valley
Looking back towards Manang from the top of the opposite valley wall, revealed layer upon layer of jagged, interlocked ridges
Looking back towards Manang from the top of the opposite valley wall, revealed layer upon layer of jagged, interlocked ridges
Entering Kangsar (3,750m)
Inside the village gate house, Kangsar
Kangsar Chorten
True seclusion. Only one monk resides at this gompa, perched on the valley side above Kangsar
The abbot of the gompa above Kangsar
Looking back towards Manang, from a point at about 4,000m on the trail to Tilicho Base Camp, I was rewarded with this lovely panorama. On the right are the flanks of Gangapurna (7,454m) and in the middle distance, Manaslu
About 2 hours before Tilicho Base Camp, the trail offers two options. I chose the one shown in the following 4 images – a route that traverses huge scree slopes, punctuated by lunar-like rock formations. The alternative demands a climb up to 5,000m, followed by a very steep descent back down to 4,200m
On the trail approaching Tilicho Base Camp, traversing huge scree slopes, punctuated by lunar-like rock formations
On the trail approaching Tilicho Base Camp, traversing huge scree slopes, punctuated by lunar-like rock formations
Finally, around a broad bend Tilicho Base Camp came into view. The trail beyond there to the Lake itself traverses left, to the point where the base of the cloud is. From there, Tilicho Peak (7,134m) disappears into the clouds
A view from Tilicho Base Camp towards Tarke Kang (Glacier Dome - 7,202m). The weather was very changeable, becoming quite cold and snowy in the afternoon
Soon after we set off from Tilicho Base Camp, before the sun’s rays had penetrated the valley, we came across a small herd of Himalayan Thar
Although cautious, they did not panic and came quite close as they past. Viewed from the trail to Tilicho Lake
Slowly they passed, carrying on in the direction they were headed before meeting us. Viewed from the trail to Tilicho Lake
At Tilicho Lake (5,000m), it was time to quench the thirst. A cold wind blew, but the whole area was essentially a huge basin, washed in white. The sun reflected mercilessly on us from all sides, bouncing off the vast wall of Tilicho Peak (7,134m - at left)
The flat frozen surface of Tilicho Lake in April
The world according to yaks – “no hurry, no worries”. Tilicho Base Camp
Leaving Tilicho Base Camp at dawn, I was rewarded with another light show, compliments of Mother Nature, this time illuminating the Grand Barrier, stretching from Tilicho Peak at right, across to Khangsar Kang (7,485m)
Above Tilicho Base Camp at dawn, compelled to pause
Above Tilicho Base Camp at dawn, even our shadows seemed to have something to say
Rounding the corner, the huge scree slopes between us and Kangsar loomed again. But this time they were considerably safer on account of their frozen, and hence stable, condition in the early morning
Huge scree slopes between Tilicho Base Camp and Kangsar, bathed in dawn sunlight
Above Kangsar, an alternative route splits upwards, leading to a summer settlement about 200m above Kangsar
Even at this high altitude, the surrounding mountains dwarf the summer settlement of Kangsar  > Letdar to Thorong La

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