Occasional Climber

Mt Earnslaw and O’Leary Peak, March 2013

4WDing up the Rees River at dawn
The old Earnslaw Hut (950m)
Inside Earnslaw Hut
View south down the Rees River, from about 1,100m
View north east, up the Rees Valley
The East Peak of Mount Earnslaw, from just above Kea Basin
The East Peak of Mount Earnslaw, from just above Kea Basin
View south, down the Rees Valley
View south down the Rees Valley, from about 1,200m
View south down the Rees Valley, from about 1,200m
On to the scree above Kea Basin, at about 1,300m
View north east, from about 1,400m
View north east, to Mount Aspiring (right skyline)
In to the rock slabs and snow fields, at about 1,600m
Ascending westward towards Birley Glacier and Wright Col
View north east to Mount Aspiring, from about 1,800m
Ascending Birley Glacier, with Earnslaw East above
On Birley Glacier at 2,200m, near Wright Col (2,264m)
Approaching Esquilant Bivy (2,200m). Pluto peak (2,480m) at left
Esquilant Bivy, Pluto Peak and Throne room
Looking up to the East Peak of Mount Earnslaw (2,830m)
View west at sunset, from Esquilant Bivy
Esquilant Bivy and Earnslaw West (2,820m) at sunset
Pluto Peak at sunrise, from Esquilant Bivy
Sunrise view to Earnslaw West (left) and Pluto Peak
Earnslaw West and Pluto Peak, at sunrise
Above Wright Col, at the beginning of the route to the summit of Earnslaw East
Accessing the scree slopes on the north face of Earnslaw East
View back to Esquilant Bivy, from about 2,300m
Cairn spotting in a world of rock
Ascending the north face of Earnslaw East
View west at about 2,400m. Mount Tutoko (2,723m) is on the left skyline
Ascending steep rock at about 2,600m, with Mount Aspiring on the north eastern skyline
View west to Mount Tutoko and Pluto Peak, from about 2,700m
At about 2,800m, just below the summit of Earnslaw East
Earnslaw East summit view, north east to Mount Aspiring
On the summit of Earnslaw East (2,830m), looking west to Mount Tutoko (2,723m) and Mount Madeline (2,516m)
From left - Mount Madeline and Tutoko on the skyline. Pluto Peak centre foreground
View south, along the south face and Glacier to the West Peak (far right) of Mount Earnslaw
Summit view east, with Mount Aspiring far left
Summit view of Mounts Madeline and Tutoko
Commencing the descent of Earnslaw East. The east face is at right and O'Leary Peak (2,570m) is the black mound above and right of the climber. Beyond O'Leary Peak is Sir William Peak (2,610m)
View north. O'Leary Peak is left
On the descent, with Mount Tutoko and Pluto Peak
Finding the route down through bluffs. Mount Aspiring is on the skyline right of centre
The crux of the route up Earnslaw East
Descending the crux
View north west, with Esquilant Bivy bottom right
Summit view south from O'Leary Peak (2,570m) to Eanslaw East (2,830m, left) and Earnslaw West (2,820m, right). The route up Earnslaw East is all left of the snow field between the East and West peaks. Mounts Madeline and Tutoko are on the right skyline
Dead goats on the summit of O'Leary Peak.
Mount Tutoko (2,723m, right) and Mount Madeline (2,536m, left), from the summit of O'Leary Peak
The access point to O'Leary Peak, from above Wright Col
Pluto Peak, sunlit at dawn
Wright Col at dawn
Descending Birley Glacier
Mount Aspiring, on the descent of Birley Glacier
Below Birley Glacier, looking back to Earnslaw East
View south along the Rees Valley, from above Kea Basin
Earnslaw East and the Rees Valley, from above Kea Basin
Earnslaw East and Kea Basin
The larger of two rock bivouacs, near Kea Basin
View west from the Rees Valley at 500m, with the 175m Lenox Falls and east face of Mount Earnslaw above. O'Leary Peak is far right

Read about it
Breaching a Guardian’s defences Wilderness Magazine Oct 13


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